That’s right I was able to catch some waves Quoc style on Long Beach in some epic 1-2ft surf! When you see the photographs you will see the epic battles I had in the surf! Yeah right!
It was good to get out and have some body board action, I had not expected to be able to and Fran being Fran, I love the fact I am getting to surf in these random places pretty much all to myself, although a lone windsurfer joined me for a little while!
Needless to say the day was not without danger, after a few waves I had drifted with the current along the beach a little and when I went to drop onto what I thought was a nice sandy bottom I was met with razor sharp rocks, the ball of my left foot taking full blow of the savage teeth rocks, the world was also treated to a very load ‘Mutha F@$#er”!
Happy Days though, once I was done for the day I came to shore where I posed for some classic pictures
This one I call the Hasslhoff look:
This one I call the Kelly Slater look:
Then after a hard day of beach action we retired to the deck of the bar and enjoyed our new found friend Mr. Mojito the III…. IV!